This job required a new egress window to be cut through the foundation wall and to tie into the existing weeping tile system for the house. Afterwards we properly waterproofed the exterior side of the foundation, backfilled and built a custom window well out of pressure treated lumber. Next we installed a new window with new aluminum capping to complete the exterior portion of the project. On the inside of the room, we completely gutted everything except the existing ceramic tile floor and interior partitions. We had to do some patchwork to the interior side of the foundation walls filling small holes that were letting small amounts of water in. We then rolled on a special concrete paint to stop any moisture from penetrating through. Next, new framing, thermal and sound proof insulation for the exterior and interior walls and ceiling, a proper vapour barrier was applied before new drywall, 3 coats of mud and tape, primed and 2 coats of paint for the walls and ceiling. For the trims we used finger-joint pine material and Masonite doors. We had new wiring ran with a permit and also 1 cool air return installed as there wasn’t 1 previously.
This job we removed the exterior siding and found rotten sheathing, framing and insulation underneath. After we removed all the rotten materials we had to do some concrete repairs and capping prior to replacing the stud walls and sheathing. We used an exterior air barrier before strapping the exterior side for the new vertical siding. On the inside, we installed new insulation, vapour barrier, drywall, 3 coats of mud and tape, primed and 2 coats of paint and new casings. We also had to remove and re install 2 windows and one entry door with new capping on the exterior. Next was new aluminum soffit and facia capping followed by the vinyl siding. Everything was sealed up with elastomeric exterior caulking to finish up the job.
This job was done not because the existing shingles were expired but because the plywood beneath was so worn out that it would no longer hold the nails that were holding the shingles on top. We removed all the existing roofing materials and installed 7/16" OSB over top of the existing 3/8” plywood. Afterwards we rolled out 6' of ice and weather shield (because of the 2’ overhang) and Gaf Deck Armour up to the ridge line. Next we nailed down a 50 Year laminate shingle with all new step and chimney flashings, soil pipe covers and bathroom vents. We eliminated the box vents and upgraded to a continuous ridge vent system. Everything was sealed up with elastomeric exterior caulking to finish up the job.
This job had a 10' easement at the rear end of the lot with an overhead hydro line running through it. We decided to utilize a few feet of it by building a floating 10' X 10' shed. We framed the sheds floor, walls and roof on the ground. We laid out the perimeter of the floor and recessed 2” thick patio stones for where the 6" X 6" barring points would sit. This allowed a 2” air space from the bottom side of the floor joist to the ground. After levelling out the new floor we used 5/8" t&g spruce plywood for the floor sheathing. We then snapped lines for the walls and installed them and hand cut the roof system and installed them on top. To keep rodents from getting below the shed we dug down 6” around the perimeter and installed galvanized rabbit wire. Next, new aluminum soffit and facia capping, vinyl siding, 50 year shingle roof and a custom lockable door. The fence/ gate system is a 6', 100% privacy style build using 6” X 6” posts dug down 42” below grade with 3 bags of concrete per post. We used 2” X 6” top rails and painted metal post caps and gate hardware to finish.
This job was a remove and replace project. A little tricky due to the nature of the positioning of the air conditioning unit as well as the style of upper deck walls we had to tie into. We used 4, 2” X 10” stringers with a special material for between the bottom side of the stringer and the concrete to preserve against the weather. We used 4”x 4” posts to support the handrail system and 2” material for the risers and treads. We like to use 2”x6” material for the top of the handrail and 2”x4” material for the mid rails. Everything was screwed and bolted together using painted and galvanized fasteners and we fastened the base of the staircase into the concrete slab to ensure no future movement. The client didn’t want balusters installed for easier snow removal in the winter seasons.
We received a call from a new client saying their basement baseboards and carpet was wet directly below a window. When we arrived on site we removed the baseboard and a small section of the drywall and insulation. We found that there was a visible vertical foundation wall crack below the window and a small stream of water coming in through at the bottom onto the floor. We removed the carpet, wet framing, insulation and sprayed everything with "Mould Control". Next we broke out the floor with a jack hammer 1' on each side of the crack exposing the footing. This gave us enough room to allow for a piece of 4” perforated weeping tile to be installed Flush to the topside of the footing. By placing the top of the tile flush with the top of the footing we are creating a reservoir for the water to now collect under the concrete floor where it can naturally dispense into the underground water system. Next we installed vinyl dimple board on the interior side of the foundation wall, covering the vertical crack and sitting on top of the footing and tile. Afterwards we placed and finished new concrete for the floor, installed new framing, insulation, vapour barrier, drywall, 3 coats of mud and tape, prime and 2 coats paint, new vinyl plank flooring and trims to finish.
This client simply didn’t like the location of the window in her kitchen and asked us to completely remove it and fill the brick in on the exterior side. I was able to source a very close match to the existing brick. Basically I removed the existing “Retro Fit Window” and started rebuilding. On the interior side there was a tile back splash installed to the drywall, which was actually extending onto the window opening. We carefully worked around this area when we removed the window and installed new vapour barrier, ½” drywall, 3 coats of mud and tape and a primer coat to finish off the interior side. On the exterior side we installed new framing, insulation, exterior sheathing and air barrier, approximately 130 new bricks and installed new facia capping above to finish.
This job was actually the final step in a sunroom repair job we had done the previous fall. We had to remove the existing concrete to get under the sunroom’s floor system to the repair and it was too late in the season to pour new concrete. The client asked us to modify the design a bit for easier use of his snow blower in the winter months. First thing we laid out the form work and hand dug the grade down enough to allow for a proper 4” thick base using ¾” crushed stone. After tamping the gravel we tied into the existing side walk slabs using 10 mm re bare pins and laid a 6”x6” wire matt down helping strengthen the new slab. Next we placed and finished the new concrete, cut the control joints, removed the formwork and laid down grass around the perimeter to finish.
This project was originally priced as a reface and save job but quickly turned into a complete rebuild after completing the tare out portion. First step we made a new plan/ material list and had the materials delivered to the jobsite. Next we shored up the existing roof using 2”x 4” material. We removed the existing stairs, deck and handrails and hauled them off to the dump. Now that the jobsite was clear we could start rebuilding. We laid out for the new footings under the existing posts, dug and poured bell shaped footings using sonotubes down 4’ under the grade line. This method ensures a wider base to support the roof and snow load. Next we had to do a fair bit of brick repair due to natural deterioration because the building was over 100 years old. We attached the rim joist to the brick using ½” x 14” galvanized carriage bolts placed every 16” O.C. and we were able to strategically drill them through the building’s sill plate ensuring absolutely no movement in the future. Next we extended the roof posts down to the footing and built the exterior beam, floor system, installed the posts for the handrails and the deck boards. Next we laid out for the stair base. We like to have a 4” thick concrete base to place the stairs on because it’s simply the best way to go in our opinion. After forming and pouring a new slab we prebuilt the stair carriage on the saw horses and dropped it into place and installed the handrail system. Finally we installed a privacy lattice skirting around the perimeter to keep out wildlife and to allow for sufficient ventilation to finish.
We can help with; Bathroom and Basement Renovations, Exterior Stair Builds, Fence/Deck and Shed Builds, Roofing, Capping, Siding and Much More!
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